ALBEROBELLO
Proclaimed a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997, this unique town is home to the highest concentration of Trulli houses in the whole of Puglia. Whereas most trulli are to be found dotted around the countryside, in Alberobello there is a whole ancient district made up of these charming buildings with their picturesque conical roofs, over 1500 of them in all. Many of the houses are still lived in and others have been turned into restaurants, cafes and shops selling trinkets and local food and wines. There is even a trullo church! These houses were originally built as a “tax dodge” – when the king’s tax collectors came along, the owners would simply remove the capstone and the conical roofs would collapse. As a result they could claim the houses were just ruins where the animals lived and avoid paying any property tax. Only 15km from the town are the caves of Castellana Grotte. Amongst the largest cave complex in Europe, a visit to the caves makes for an enjoyable, alternative day-out – if you can drag yourself away from the wonderful sun, food and wine!
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BARI
Bari is the capital of Puglia and is also known as the city of St Nicholas after its patron saint. It is a sprawling metropolis and a thriving port, worth visiting for its old quarter and the good shopping. The historical centre is located to the north of the city and features the impressive Basilica of St Nicholas, where the remains of the saint are interred and the castle of Federico II from the 12th century. In this area the streets are narrow and winding and you can see neighbours chatting across their balconies or sitting together in little courtyards. These ancient streets lead onto the Piazza Mercantile and Piazza Ferrase, recently redeveloped with numerous restaurants and bars and now at the hub of Bari’s thriving social scene. The main shops are located on Corso Cavour and Via Sparano and offer a good range of shoes and leather goods. Bari has a long tradition of seafood and the locals often eat raw mussels, clams and prawns. Along the old city walls there are several good fish restaurants, ideal for a relaxing lunch overlooking the sea.
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BRINDISI
Known as the gateway to the East, Brindisi has flourished for thousands of years as the most eastern port of the Italian peninsular. This city marked the end of the Via Appia in Roman times, and the columns that signalled its entrance can still be seen at the top of a grand flight of stone steps overlooking the port. Here was the setting for epic sea battle between Caesar and Pompey and the meeting place for Mark Anthony & Octavius when they carved up the empire. The light in the town was so praised by Federico II in the 12th century that he called the city ‘Filia Solis’ or ‘The daughter of the Sun’. Brindisi has been immortalised in the Italian language since the time of the Crusades. When knights and pilgrims were departing for the Holy Land, Brindisi was the last safe port of the journey and so people would raise a toast to “Brindisi” in the hope of seeing each other again, safely back in Western Europe. As a result another word in Italian for a toast is a ‘Brindisi’. In the 19th century the city prospered as the entrepot for all wares from India, linking Bombay to London. Today, the city is still an important port. The nicest areas to discover are along the waterfront of the old town, where a long row of stylish bars and restaurants line the promenade. There is also an attractive pedestrian shopping area and a number of interesting sites such as the Castle of Federico II, the Aragonese Castle and the 12th century Romanesque Cathedral.
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CASTELLANA GROTTE
Castellana Grotte is a little country town famous for its caves or "grotte" after which the town is named. As the caves are on the edge of town, in high season Castellana is not packed with day trippers. The town of Castellana stands on a hilltop overlooking sweeping plains and vineyards. Its oldest street was built during the 17th century so you'll be able to stroll past the ornately frescoed Palazzo Longo and enjoy the fascinating little shops and bustling restaurants. Ancient churches, picture postcard piazzas and clock towers add to the charm. The caves are open year-round and offer an interesting day out for all ages, especially if the weather is less than perfect. One of the largest cave complexes in Europe, it contains a fascinating variety of rock formations, culminating in the breathtaking “Grotta Bianca” or “White Cave”. Entrance is with a tour guide only and visits last about 2 hours.
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CISTERNINO
Cisternino is set on a hilltop, surrounded by endless plains of olive groves. The town has a beautiful historical centre, completely closed-off to cars. In fact the streets are so narrow and winding in some parts, it would be impossible for cars to pass through them! This only adds to the charm of this picturesque town. The buildings are characterised by external stone staircases that connect the various floors of each house, typical of the 16th and 17th century architecture in this area. Wandering through the alleyways, you will come across the beautiful clock tower in the main square, several stunning churches and the remains of the Norman tower, Porta Grande that once marked the entrance to the town.
Cisternino is particularly famous for the excellent steak available in a variety of rustic “Osteria” (simple restaurants serving home-cooked food). In some, it is even traditional to select your steak before it is cooked. Since Puglia offers a fabulous selection of full-bodied red wines, such as the Primitivo and Salice Salentino, there is a no shortage of good vintages to accompany these fine dishes.
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CEGLIE MESSAPICA
The name of this historic hilltop town recalls some of the earliest inhabitants of Puglia, the Messapi. Settlers in prehistoric times, the name Messapi means “between two seas” and this is in fact one of Ceglie Messapica’s many charms. Situated right in the heart of the countryside, it is almost exactly equidistant from both the Adriatic and Ionian coasts. Therefore, as the locals delight in telling you, you can pick which ever coast has the best wind when you want to go to the beach.
Ceglie Messapica has a picturesque historical centre, built in the white stone typical of this area. But it is perhaps most well known for its excellent gastronomic tradition. The Gambero Rosso Guide – Italy’s equivalent of the Michelin ratings, highly recommends the gourmet restaurant “Cibus” and there are several other superb restaurants, as well as a selection of rustic “Osterias” serving delicious home-cooked food at very reasonable prices.
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LECCE
Easily the most beautiful city in Puglia, Lecce is known as the “Florence of the South”, due to its ornate architecture and cultural heritage. The stone of the city is famous for being very easy to carve and for its rich creamy yellow colour. Throughout the extensive historical centre you will see countless examples of exquisite baroque architecture, from grand houses with carved balconies to the gorgeous façade of the Basilica Santa Croce. Lecce is the main city of the Salentine Peninsula, and it has a long traditional affinity with Greek culture going back to its foundation. To this day, in the Grecìa Salentina, a group of towns not far from Lecce, the griko language is still spoken. In the main square the remains of the impressive amphitheatre from Roman times can still be seen. This square is named after Orontius of Lecce, locally called Sant'Oronzo - considered to have been the city's first Christian bishop and Lecce's patron saint. The city university specialises in the arts, and Lecce is a centre for art and theatre and music in the region. Many artisan shops line the intricately carved streets – it’s worth visiting when the shops are open (in the mornings until 1pm and in the afternoons from 5pm) as they add real colour to the city. Also not to be missed are the imposing cathedral in Piazza Duomo and the Roman theatre.
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LOCOROTONDO
Locorotondo occupies a stunning position with amazing views over the Valle d’Itria, scattered with olive groves and Trulli houses. Its name means “Round Place” after the arrangement of the houses in a circular fashion on the edge of the old town. This traditional town is typical of the region, characterised by winding narrow streets and quaint buildings. Stay here and you may even be lucky enough to catch one of the colourful local festivals including the popular event in honour of the town’s patron saint, San Rocco, as well as a number of food festivals. Locorotondo is well-known in Puglia for its wine making, in particular the white wine, Bianco Locorotondo produced in the area.
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MARTINA FRANCA
Martina Franca has a beautiful setting, dominating the Valle d'Itria, with its vineyards, small groups of picturesque white houses, dry stone walls and open countryside. The climate adds to the appeal, as due to its position 400 meters above sea level, the town has a wonderfully mild temperature throughout the summer months. The architecture of the historic part of town is charming with small white houses, narrow lanes, wrought iron balconies covered in flowers, and fabulous and completely intact baroque buildings. Interesting monuments include the gateway Porta di St. Antonio, the Arch of St Stefano, Palazzo Ducale, the Collegiata of St Martino and the Palazzo of the University of Martina Franca. Since 1975, the town has hosted the annual summer opera festival of opera, Festival della Valle d'Itria.
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OSTUNI
The largest and most famous of the hilltop towns in the Valle d’Itria, Ostuni is known as the White City and is a fortified town with imposing white ramparts and a colourful past. The historical centre dates back to the 11th century, and is a labyrinth of winding cobbled streets more reminiscent of Greece, than of typical Italian piazzas. Nowadays these charming streets are dotted with tiny shops and cafes offering the diverse wares of local artisans and other mouth-watering specialities like the famous hand-made, ear-shaped pasta of Puglia – the Orrecchiete. Numerous restaurants are also to be found in this lovely medieval setting, with something to suit all tastes and budgets. Ostuni also boasts several stylish cocktail bars, perfect for a pre-dinner aperitivo or for some vibrant people watching later in the evening, when the locals come out to play.
From its hilltop position, Ostuni commands spectacular views across the plains of the Valle d’Itria, all the way to the Adriatic Coast, only 7km distant. With more than 20km of coastline, the territory of Ostuni offers a wealth of beaches, from the rolling sand dunes in the north to the secluded coves to the east and south east. Many rocky bays that are perfect for fishing and snorkelling lie alongside sandy inlets that gently shelve into the clear blue waters of the Adriatic ocean. In 2007 the coastline of Ostuni was awarded Blue Flag status for the cleanliness of its waters for the fourth year running.
Throughout the year, Ostuni is host to copious local festivals that celebrate the traditions of the town’s rich cultural heritage. These festivities culminate in the annual celebrations of the Patron Saint of Ostuni, Sant Oronzo. For three days, commencing during the last week of August, the town is transformed with picturesque lights, a bandstand in the central square and hundreds of stalls selling delicious treats, arts and crafts. The highlight of the festival is the “Cavalcata” or horse parade, where as many as 40 horses and riders, all in individual costume, process through the old and new quarters of the town. A magnificent firework display at midnight marks the close of the celebrations.
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OTRANTO
Otranto occupies the most easterly point on the Italian peninsular and officially celebrates New Year’s Eve first in the country. This picturesque seaside town is particularly famous for its Cathedral, dating back to 1088 which contains an extremely unusual mosaic floor, the “Tree of Life” depicting images from religions around the world. Nearby is the Castle of Otranto, the setting for Horace Walpole’s book of the same name, generally held to be the first gothic novel. The small sandy beach is perfect for a relaxing dip after lunch at one of the many seaside restaurants on the sea and the pretty winding streets provide plenty of tempting shopping for colourful clothes and artefacts.
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TARANTO
Taranto has been an important commercial and military port for thousands of years. Its oldest part is based on a tiny island at the heart of the city that was formed by the creation of a channel at the end of the 19th century, to allow military ships to enter the Mar Piccolo harbour. Because of the presence of these two bays, Taranto is also called “the city of the two seas”. The imposing Cathedral of Saint Cataldo is located on the island and the newly refurbished Archaeological museum is across a small bridge on the nearby mainland. The modern part of Taranto has well-developed steel and iron foundries, oil refineries and shipyards. The natural harbour at Taranto made it a logical home port for the Italian naval fleet before and during the First World War. During WorldTaranto became famous as a consequence of the November 1940 British air attack on the Regia Marina naval base stationed here, which is today called the Battle of Taranto.
Taranto is also the origin of the common name of the Tarantula spider family, Theraphosidae. In ancient times, residents of the town of Taranto, upon being bitten by the large local Wolf Spider, Lycosa tarentula, would promptly do a long vigorous dance. This was done in order to sweat most of the poison out of their pores and thus survive the spider bite. The dance they did became locally known as the Tarantella, which eventually became the name we use today to describe the large, sometimes hairy type of spider, the Tarantula.
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